He moves across the unforgiving, rocky coastal headland with a kind of animal grace, a man in his element. “Down there, between the rocks,” says Josh Whiteland, “that’s where the seeds settle. That’s where the sea celery grows best.”
Indeed, sea celery is one of those foraged coastal plants modern diners have now come to take for granted, a fixture in restaurants from Quay to Orana and many points between. As is saltbush, another ingredient you’ll find on just about every progressive menu throughout the nation. There’s samphire, too, “native apricot” and coastal fig.
Read more at: The Australian